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I do know that there is a Grundfos pump in the airing cupboard next to the cylinder and two white boxes connected to the pipes which I believe are motorised valves, but that is the extent of my knowledge - the airing cupboard is a bit of a spaghetti junction or pipes and wheel valves, and I don't really know what any of them do! I just opened them all when I first moved in and hoped for the best, I've never touched them since lol. You can have hot water only, but you can't have heating only - the hot water has to be on for the heating to work, although I have no idea how the two are connected from a system point of view. I think you're getting a bit technical on me now lol. Thanks for the tip about the combi timers not controlling the hot water, I hadn't considered that. I will price up some boiler timers and see if it's worth doing or whether to add it to the wishlist of projects to tackle in future. Having said that I suppose it can't hurt to put a TRV on the kitchen radiator as that doesn't really need to be on while we're in there cooking, worth considering I suppose.
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We do have a fire in the living room, but it's rare we have it on unless it's really really cold! On the plus side in the hall staircase and landing is not connected to the open plan space and the front door is a traditional wood design with thick curtain to reduce the draught in winter, so although the thermostat is directly above the radiator (small double) at light switch level it is still a cold space as it is next to the front door and the radiator has to heat up the stairs and landing too so it sort of still works.
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To fix downstairs would probably require proper room sensors and better radiators for the size of the space it is heating, and new windows and doors wouldn't hurt either! The other small radiator at the other end is back to back with the kitchen radiator but not sure if that would affect the TRV reading.Ī room thermostat would probably be better, but I was mainly looking for quick (and cheap) fixes to improve the current system. The curtains over the bay window are also floor length so would obstruct the TRV sensor (the low profile heater runs underneath the bay window). The only reason I wasn't going to bother with downstairs was because we don't really have trouble with the heat levels downstairs, if anything it's hard to keep it warm even when heaters are on constantly as it is a large open plan space and has a very large bay window at one end and French doors at the other.ĭue to the size of the rooms I'm not sure TRV's would help as it would be cutting off before the whole space was to temperature.
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Is it a DIY job or something a professional should do, baring in mind I don't want to replace the whole system, just the timer/thermostat of the existing system? Is it as simple as looking at a wiring diagram for the ST699 and attaching to the corresponding connection of a new timer? My question is how difficult would it be to replace just the timer and thermostat (with a wireless one) without touching anything else in the system? Would I need to replace it with a Honeywell model or are all the wires like for like?
And one that doesn't lose all it's settings whenever there is a power interruption! Ideally I would like a modern digital timer with flexibility for multiple programmes for different days and times and a wireless thermostat in the living room to control the temperature. I would really like to get rid of the thermostat in the hall altogether for cosmetic purposes and I would love to have more flexible control over the heating than the draconian timer we have now that has one setting for all days for both the heating and the hot water at the same time. Not so worried about downstairs but our upstairs rooms are very prone to overheating and I think TRVs would really help and save money.īut this has got me thinking, why stop there? Our boiler is controlled by an ancient looking Honeywell timer which from Googling I think is a Honeywell ST699 (except our version features a delightful brown/beige colour scheme!) There is also an equally old looking thermostat dial in the hall (just above the radiator which doesn't strike me as an ideal location!). I always thought I would need to replace the boiler system to get these but (unless I'm very mistaken) it's just a case of swapping the valves on the existing system. This has lead me to think that while I'm replacing valves anyway I may as well use the opportunity to fit Thermostatic valves to all the upstairs radiators.
I've been doing a lot of research on heating systems recently, and for those that have seen my other topic I've been having trouble with a cold radiator which I think will need new valves.
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